Estonian Capital Blends Ancient, Modern History
By Sergey Chernov
Staff Writer
Sergey Chernov / The St. Petersburg Times
Although there is no direct train service currently operating between St. Petersburg and Tallinn, the Estonian capital can be reached by plane or by bus. |
Many things have changed since visiting Tallinn in May 2007. Back then, there was still the occasional broken window — evidence of the riots that ensued after the Soviet-era Bronze Soldier war monument was relocated to a military cemetery from the center of town by the Estonian authorities. This year, it was quiet and beautiful. Estonia has now become part of the Schengen zone (from Dec. 21, 2007). It has yet to adopt the euro, but Jan. 1, 2011 has been set as the formal target date. There are no more trains between St. Petersburg and Tallinn, but there are still plenty of coaches as well as a new addition — Estonian Air flights. When visited in May, Tallinn’s central square, Vabaduse vuljak (Freedom Square) was undergoing repair work that lasted for a year in total, but it has since reopened, complete with a new Freedom Monument — a 26-meter structure built from imported Czech glass and unveiled on June 23. The official opening ceremony of the square, which culminated in a fireworks show, took place on Aug. 20. The monument, which is dedicated to the Estonian War of Independence that lasted from 1918 to 1920, was modeled on the Cross of Liberty, the first Estonian state decoration. Established in 1919, Winston Churchill and King George V of the U.K. were among those awarded the honor. This manifestation of independence (“the biggest and most substantial monument of the independent Estonian state,” as Mayor Edgar Savisaar described the Freedom Square ensemble) might have annoyed some people in the Kremlin, but not as much as the relocation of the Bronze Soldier. Estonian Tourist Board statistics show a rise in the number of tourists from Russia, after the 2007 nadir caused by anti-Estonian propaganda in the Russian media, and the country has demonstrated that they are welcome by taking steps such as abolishing from July 30 the requirement that Russians obtain official invitations for any visit lasting for more a few days. The St. Petersburg-Tallinn GoRail train stopped operating on Sept. 14, 2008 after several years of struggling to attract more passengers, even without any politics being involved. Even after changing its schedule to nighttime for the convenience of potential passengers, it was still half-empty at best and finally lost out to Eurolines Baltic buses, which shuttle passengers to the Estonian capital and back from seven to nine times a day for $34 to $37. The Estonian Air flights were added on July 27, and judging from the company’s web site, are considerably more expensive, but take just an hour to reach Tallinn’s airport, which is located close to the city center. The bus seems the optimal way to get to Tallinn and is popular with Petersburgers — and is a guarantee against surprises that may lie in wait at the border for people travelling in their own cars. One bus passenger admitted that he had chosen to take the bus after spending six hours in his car on the Russian side of the border — a complaint that is frequently heard.
Sergey Chernov / The St. Petersburg Times
Young women in medieval outfits sell honeyed almonds in the center of Tallinn. |
Eurolines Baltic, the largest operator of international express coach routes in the Baltic region, has a fleet of 44 modern tourist buses, including Eurolines Lux Express, which offers free Wi-Fi, hot drinks, newspapers and other comforts. The notoriously bad Russian roads (the difference can be felt almost immediately as soon as the bus crosses the border) are, it seems, a constant nuisance for the company, with buses on the Tallinn-St. Petersburg route unlikely to last as long as their counterparts within the Baltics. It is 360 kilometers between the two cities by road; the bus takes some eight hours to cover the distance. It will still be possible until the end of next year to appreciate the Estonian senti and krooni, whose banknotes feature portraits of poets, composers and scholars on the front and historical views on the back. Reintroduced as the national currency on June 20, 1992, the Estonian currency replaced the Soviet ruble after the country regained independence on August 20, 1991. Originally pegged to the German mark, the kroon is now pegged to the euro (at 15.6466 kroons per euro.) Tallinn’s population of 400,000 consists mainly of Estonians (52.2 percent) and Russians (39 percent), with most of the latter remaining in the city from the second Soviet occupation period, which lasted from 1944 to 1991. The first Soviet occupation, from 1940 to 1941, was followed by the German occupation of 1941-1944. Those dark years, when thousands of Estonians were repressed (imprisoned, deported, executed or forced to join either the Soviet or Nazi armies) are remembered in the Museum of Occupations, located at 8 Toompea (www.okupatsioon.ee). A wooden boat like the ones used by Estonians to escape to Sweden, objects from Soviet camps, old photographs, prison doors, Soviet monuments and products are featured among the displays. One of the most intriguing objects is a Soviet-era steam-based device, based on the principle of a kettle, which was used by the KGB to open and inspect private letters. The device was found at Tallinn’s main post office soon after Estonia regained independence in 1991. Documentaries in English covering the different periods of Estonia’s recent history can be watched on several screens. There is also a selection of literature and paraphernalia on sale. Since such a large percentage of the local population is Russian, Tallinn has a Russian Drama Theater (Vene Teater) — the only professional Russian drama theater in Estonia (www.veneteater.ee). At a recent performance, however, many members of the audience were Estonian (translation was provided via headphones). Alexander Chatsky, the protagonist of Alexander Griboyedov’s 1823 play “Woe from Wit,” was presented, rather irritatingly, as a long-haired biker-type with a portable stereo. The staging was reminiscent of the Soviet theatrical experiments of the 1970s, but the public’s reaction was generally positive.
Sergey Chernov / The St. Petersburg Times
One of many narrow streets dating back to the medieval period in the town center. |
Located at 5 Vabaduse vuljak in the center of the city next door to the Scandic Hotel, the Russian Drama Theater was founded during the Soviet occupation in December 1948, on the premises of a former cinema, and is interesting enough to warrant a visit. Other notable reminders of the Soviet occupation include the ominous KGB Headquarters building (1 Pagari, on the corner of 59 Pikk). The plaque on the building reads in English: “This building housed the organ of repression of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.” The 314-meter-high Soviet television tower built for the 1980 Olympic Games has been closed to visitors since Nov. 26, 2007, but is a reminder of both the occupation and the fight for freedom. At the base of the tower, some bullet holes can reportedly still be seen, dating from an attempted Soviet takeover on Aug. 21, 1991 — one day after Estonia declared independence. Tallinn’s main sights and attractions are concentrated in and around the Old Town, which is divided into the Lower Town and the Upper Town. The Town Hall Square and Toompea Castle with its wall, gates and towers and medieval churches are certainly not to be missed. The website www.tourism.tallinn.ee can be a good starting point for touring objects of interest. General architecture deserves a mention, too: There are interesting buildings all over the town, including brick buildings from the 1930s and wooden architecture right in the center — something that can hardly ever be found in modern cities anywhere, including in St. Petersburg. As Estonia’s cultural center, Tallinn is home to 31 museums, 47 galleries and exhibition halls, 13 concert halls, 13 theaters and 34 libraries. The city has 40 square kilometers of parks, gardens and forests. Current events in Tallinn include Credo, an international festival of Orthodox music that started last week and runs through Sept. 29, while the future promises Festival Trialogs, performances and debates on science, theater, music, art, poetry and liturgy (Sept. 27 to Oct. 3); NYYD ’09, an international New Music festival concentrating on music theater and multimedia projects this year (Oct. 21 to 25); and the St. Martin’s Day Fair, featuring national handicraft workshops accompanied by traditional culinary delights, folk music and Martinmas costumes organized by the Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union (Nov. 5 to 8). Alternatively, there is still nothing like walking around the medieval Old Town, taking a moment to drop into its snug, inviting cafes — something visitors have not tired of doing in decades. The St. Petersburg Times was a guest of the Estonian Tourist Board, Enterprise Estonia (Liivalaia 13/15, 10118 Tallinn, Estonia. Tel: +372 6279 770). www.eas.ee, www.visitestonia.com
Sergey Chernov / The St. Petersburg Times
A display at the Museum of Occupations featuring one of the boats used by Estonians attempting to flee the Soviet army. |
INFORMATION How to Get There Eurolines buses depart eight times a day from Baltiisky Station, from 7.15 a.m. to 11.45 p.m. $34-$37. www.eurolines.ee Now there are also Estonian Air flights from St. Petersburg to Tallinn four days a week (Mon., Wed., Fri., Sun.). $150 to $1,022. www.estonian-air.ee Where to Stay Scandic Palace, a 4-star hotel, restaurant, bar and leisure complex with a sauna, wireless Internet access and meeting facilities, located on the main square next to the Tallinn’s Old Town. The Rolling Stones and Russian pop diva Alla Pugachyova have stayed there, as testified to by photographs on the wall. $70 to $430 per room per night. 3 Vabaduse vuljak. www.scandichotels.com Meriton Conference & Spa Hotel, a new 4-star hotel close to the Old Town and the Parliament House. Opened on April 28, it has a gym, an aqua and sauna center and free Wi-Fi connection. $118 to $368 per room per night. 8 Paldiski maantee. www.meritonhotels.com Where To Eat Olde Hansa, a three-story medieval restaurant offering game (wild boar, bear, hare, elk), fish and poultry. Vana turg 1. www.oldehansa.com
|
Ïåðåâåñòè íà ðóññêèé
Print this article
Issues Archive
Issue in PDF
Issue in RSS